- 1+ 40- 8
A Chance To Change Everythingv
Frosty: "What's going on inside of you, Jay? What are you afraid of? You've got a chance to change everything. Take it. This is about more than just surfing. This is about choices you make in life. This is about finding that one thing that sets you free. You need to believe in yourself or none of this matters."
When Jay finds trouble on land, Frosty reminds him of the opportunities he has for greatness in the sea. This however will require Jay to make some wiser decisions than he has been making but could lead to very positive things later on.
- 2+ 19- 6
Our Journey Togetherv
Frosty: "In 1987, I pulled an eight-year-old kid out of the surf. A few years later, I discovered our journey together was far from over."
Reflecting on the first time they met, Frosty talks about how his first interaction with Jay came after as a young boy Jay was washed into the sea prompting Frosty to rescue him from the dangerous surf. It was not evident then that their paths would cross again.
- 3+ 19- 8
Jay: "You ever see something and you think that's the reason you are put on this earth?"
Kim: "What are you talking about?"
Jay: "The biggest wave in the world, Mavericks, it's real."
Speaking to love interest Kim, Jay discusses how he feels that it's his destiny to surf the dangerous Mavericks, the biggest wave in the world. But having the drive to do something is only part of the task. Having the skill and training to survive is another story.
- 4+ 16- 7
Frosty: "If you want to get out there you got to forget about the pain. A wave like Mavericks will hold you down for minutes at a time. If you can't hold your breath for at least four minutes then you may as well not even paddle out."
In training Jay for surfing Mavericks, he explains that one part of the task is being able to hold your breath for a long time, at least four minutes, so if the need arises, you're ready.
- 5+ 12- 8
I Know How Good You Arev
Frosty: "I know how good you are. I've seen you out there. You surf circles around those other kids. Those are normal waves. Surfing normal waves is about how you perform when everything goes right. Big wave surfing it's a different ball game. It's about how you perform when everything goes wrong. One bump off the face of that wave and you're hitting the water like concrete at 50 miles per hour. Then you got a thousand tons of water coming down on top of you. It's knocking you senseless, ripping you apart and pushing you down to a place that's so deep and so dark that you don't want to be there."
Jay: "So why do it?"
Frosty: "Get out of here. I got work to do."
Jay: "Train me then. Train me to ride it."
Frosty: "Did you hear what I said?"
Jay wants to surf Mavericks and thinks that because he is a solid surfer he has what it takes. What Jay doesn't realize, as Frosty informs him of, is that surfing Mavericks is completely on another level, one frankly Jay is not ready for.
- 6+ 10- 7
Why Are You Doing This?v
Kim: "Jay, why are you doing this?"
Jay: "Cause I'll know that I am alive."
Kim, Jay's love interest, is concerned about Jay and questions why he would want to put himself in the type of danger that comes with surfing Mavericks. For Jay however, that's the only way to feel alive.
- 7+ 7- 5
Jay: "I want to ride that wave."
Frosty: "Untrained boys don't step into the ring against Mike Tyson."
Jay pleads with Frosty in his relentless quest to join Frosty in surfing Mavericks but Frosty reminds Jay of the harsh reality that he is not nearly trained or skilled well enough to safely survive.
- 8+ 5- 5
Frosty: "So you made it all of 30 yards. If you want to get out there, you have to make it through half a mile of this, just to get in position to Mavericks. So you've got to conserve all the energy you've got. All right, now let's take a look at what you missed. Now for some reason, you decided to paddle straight out into that mess. Now, take a look at the rocks over there. See what's happening with the current?"
Jay: "It's got nowhere to go."
Frosty: "Nowhere to go but where?"
Jay: "Back out"
Frosty: "Back out, exactly. To a waterman, it's a conveyor belt."
As Frosty teaches Jay, learning to surf Mavericks is more than having the skill and training, it's about learning how to do things smarter not harder. This trick, one of many he shares with his pupil, allows for an easier route out to the Mavericks meaning more energy for the actual waves.
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